Garden Edge | Lawn Edging | Garden Bed Edging

A garden edge is the material or structure that creates a defined border between two areas of a garden, most often between a flower bed and the lawn. It sits vertically in the ground so grass roots cannot cross it and loose material cannot wash out.

It does three jobs at once. It gives the garden a clean, finished line, it stops grass and weeds spreading into your beds, and it holds mulch, gravel and soil where you put them.

Beds keep the shape you gave them, grass stops creeping in, the garden looks deliberate rather than overgrown, and mowing gets quicker because you have a line to mow to instead of an edge to strim.

Broadly: plastic, metal, stone or brick, timber and concrete. We stock the first two, in flexible recycled plastic, corrugated metal, black steel, stainless steel and corten weathering steel. For stone, brick, concrete or timber a landscape supply yard will serve you better.

It depends on the material, but the sequence is the same. Mark the line, cut a clean vertical edge with a square spade, set the edging against that face with the top about 50 mm above soil level, peg it down, then backfill and firm the soil against both sides.

Almost all of it is a DIY job, and everything we sell is meant to be fitted by the person who buys it. A rubber mallet and a square spade cover most installations. Large or intricate schemes are where people bring in a landscaper. We do not offer an installation service.

It depends on the material. Steel and corten last many years in ordinary ground. Plastic lasts well but fades and stiffens in strong sun over time, and a mower wheel riding up on it will eventually mark it. That is why we suggest the thicker profile and sell spare pegs.

Yes, and it is one of the main reasons to choose a strip over a rigid border. Flexible plastic bends to a curve by hand. Steel bends too, though it is easier to form it around something circular. Peg curves more closely than straight runs, roughly every 300 mm.

Very little. Keep soil and clippings off the top edge so the line stays visible, walk the run once each spring to tap back anything the frost has lifted, and replace any damaged section rather than leaving a gap.

Garden centres and home improvement shops carry a limited range, usually thin plastic strip. Specialist online sellers like us carry the full range of materials and heights, and we deliver across Europe. Landscape supply yards are the place to go for stone and aggregate.

The flexible recycled plastic kit, by some distance. On a long run the price per metre is what decides most jobs, and plastic is where the value sits.

A 5 cm face is enough to keep grass out of a flat bed. Go to 10 cm or more where there is a mulch layer, a gravel area or a change of level to hold back. The deeper the face, the more it retains.

Measure along the actual line the edging will follow, going round every curve, rather than measuring straight across the bed. A curved border can need noticeably more than its width suggests. Add a little for cuts.

Yes. The per metre ranges are cut to the length you order, with no minimum, so you buy the run you measured instead of a fixed size kit with metres left over.

For the plastic kit, a clean spade cut is usually enough. For steel you want a proper narrow trench so the strip is supported along its full depth. Either way the top should finish about 50 mm above soil level.

That is the idea. Set at about 50 mm above soil level, a mower passes over the top and you stop needing to strim the edge by hand.

Corten sheds some rust while the patina is forming, and run off can mark light paving or render nearby. If it is going next to pale stone, allow for that or choose black or stainless steel instead.

Stainless resists corrosion and keeps its bright finish, which is why it is the choice where appearance matters most. Corten is the opposite: it is meant to rust on the surface and then stabilise.

Spikes driven through the tabs along the base, plus the backfilled soil firmed against both sides. Both matter. Soil that has not been firmed lets the strip move even when the spikes are right.

Roughly every 1.2 m on straight runs and every 300 mm on curves. Under pegging a curve is the single most common reason edging pulls itself flat over a season.

Yes. Butt the ends tightly and put a peg either side of the join. A gap at a join is exactly where grass gets back through.

It stops grass spreading in from the lawn by runners, which is the main problem. It will not stop seed blowing into the bed from above, so it reduces weeding rather than ending it.

For a gravel path, the corrugated profile or a steel edge is the better answer, because the loose material pushes constantly against the strip. Flat plastic strip is happier between a lawn and a planted bed.

A square spade to cut the line, a rubber mallet for the spikes, gloves, and something to kneel on. We sell all of those alongside the edging.

Plastic usually can, if you lift the spikes carefully rather than pulling the strip. Steel can be lifted too, though corten will already have weathered to the shape and position it was in.

The plastic kit includes its spikes. Spare pegs are sold separately in packs, which is worth adding if the run is long or the ground is stony and you expect to lose a few.

It can if the installation is too shallow, which is the main reason to get the depth right. A spring check to tap back anything that has lifted takes a few minutes and keeps the line true.

Yes, the flexible plastic edging kit is made from recycled plastic. If a job has a sustainability requirement attached to it, that is usually the material that satisfies it.

Delivery is free across Europe on orders of EUR 60 or more, and a flat EUR 22 below that. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and then take 5 to 7 days to arrive.

Get in touch and we will help you sort it out. Note that the per metre ranges are cut to your length, which affects the change of mind cancellation right, so it is worth measuring twice before ordering. See our Refunds and Returns page for the full position.